14. Last tango in Buenos Aires.

But first, as promised, a quick update on the Sabatini's dinner experience. Well, I would describe it as fairly average...it was nice to have a different dining venue and a little more privacy whilst eating, but in my view it did not warrant the surcharge. I had a steak for my main course whilst Claire had lobster and it was washed down with a bottle of Chablis. The venue was full, the ambience different to the main dining room, the waiter was attentive and helpful without being intrusive and it was fun watching the Maître D fuss over all his charges like a mother hen. However, I doubt it's something we will do again.

So today, Tuesday, we have been in Buenos Aires. The city is big, and when I say big, I mean very, very big. It stretches along the coast for miles but fortunately we were docked close to the main part of town. After much thought and discussion as to how best to spend our shore leave, we eventually decided to take a city tour. 

We definitely made the right decision. The temperature crept up to well over 30 degrees and to have walked any distance would have meant instant fatigue and probably a touch of heatstroke. The city was extra busy as it was the last business day before the New Year break and the streets were absolutely choked with traffic.

The city also looks like a cross between Paris and New York City. There are wide boulevards and French style chateau buildings mixed with modern high rise skyscrapers, there are green parks and more public art and sculptures than I have ever seen in a capital city, there is high end shopping and there are street vendors, but there is also squalor. 

Our tour took us first to the main square and to the presidential building from where Eva Peron would appear in front of her adoring crowd. On the way, our guide gave us a 10 minute speech about the history of the Falklands and why they should be Argentinian, but he was also scathing over the corruption which is plainly evident in Christina Kirchner's current government.

We then moved on to the most colourful part of the city, La Boca. Think a Latin version of Covent Garden with lots of street artists, boutiques, souvenir stalls and brightly painted pubs and clubs all advertising authentic tango dancing. A tourist trap certainly, but there remained a certain charm about the place. For any football fans reading, we also passed the Boca Juniors stadium which, according to our guide is the most important place in the universe. As an aside, when the club was formed they could not agree upon what colour strip to adopt and so eventually decided to use the colours of the flag of the next ship to enter the harbour. That ship was Swedish, and so that is why the team has played in yellow and blue ever since.

The last stop was the mecca for locals and tourists alike, the mausoleum containing the remains of Evita herself. On the way we passed the latest development in the city, the waterfront. This time think London Docklands, lots of modern apartment buildings and a myriad of shops and modern restaurants serving everything from local dishes to Chinese takeaways to the ever present McDonald's. We also drove through some of the more upmarket parts of the city where large, expensive, turn of the century houses had been turned into embassies for what seemed like every nation on earth.

The cemetery was, of course, heaving but it was also fascinating as many hundred private burial plots have been purchased over the years and there seems to have been a competition as to which family could build the most ornate resting place.

It was now mid afternoon and the heat was sapping our energy so we returned to the ship, changed into swimming costumes and jumped into the pool for a refreshing swim. The fact that it was more like swimming in a warm bath, but that didn't matter. Then as the sun began to sink lower in the sky we stayed up on deck, cold beer in hand and watched the sun set over the city as we sailed away.

13. Observations three.

We are now on the second part of a two day sea leg to Buenos Aires. As we head ever northwards, the temperature is rising and we are now comfortably into the mid 20's, the wind is dropping and the sea is becoming calmer.

Having been on board for 10 days now, I think we just about have the measure of the ship. As with all cruise ships and entertainment and facilities, Golden Princess has her good points and bad points.

We have been to see one or other of the shows most evenings. Generally, they are good, but if more cringeworthy, only last about 40 minutes so are not too much to bear. So far we have seen the house song and dance troupe, a Spanish singer, a comedian and a magician and a mixture of some or all of the above. There are a number of musical ensembles on board who cater for just about every taste. The trio who play music for ballroom dances in the Wheelhouse Bar most evenings are excellent, particularly so given that the pianist fell and tore ligaments in his ankle during the first stormy sea day and is hobbling around in a cast and with crutches, whilst (in keeping with our applying names to fellow travellers), Vladimir Putin has a nice sideline in playing percussion.

The main house band is a five piece from somewhere Spanish speaking and although they have a fairly wide repertoire, tend to play a lot in Spanish and Latin styles...great if you like Santana cover versions (which I do).

Regular readers might be asking "how are you doing in the casino?" Well, the answer is we haven't been. This is partly because there is only one roulette table and it is usually crowded with high rollers, and secondly part of the casino is, on most nights, a smoking area. In fact, it is one of the things that I dislike about the ship...one has no option other than to walk through a smokey casino in order to reach the theatre.

We have one very interesting lecturer on board. An ocean scientist by profession and employed by the U.S. Geological Survey, she has spoken with great authority on several marine related topics ranging from Shackleton's expeditions to whaling, from penguins to glaciers and with one regarding cartography yet to come.

We have had no complaints whatsoever regarding the quantity and quality of the food on board. This is the first cruise where we have opted for anytime dining rather than traditional dining at a fixed time. Occasionally we have had rather quiet tablemates, but generally the conversation and company has been pleasant enough although the same topics do tend to arise most evenings. Likewise the service except for one evening when it was particularly poor. Of course everyone can have an off day once in a while. Maybe that is where traditional dining wins over anytime....with traditional you get to know your waiter and they get to know you and you also form a stronger friendship with your dining companions.

This evening we have booked to eat at Sabatini's, one of the two speciality restaurants on board so I will report back in due course. We have also eaten at the Crown Grill, which is the other speciality restaurant but as that was just for a pub style fish and chips lunch, it hardly counts as a gastronomic extravaganza.

Before I close, just time to mention yesterday's nature moment...we sighted a whale spouting and then watched it's fin disappearing into the depths as we were having breakfast.

12. Islas Malvinas y muchas penguinos.

I know it's really the Falkland Islands, but since this posting might be going through Argentinian servers, I'm taking no chances regarding any possible censorship issues.

But first of all, as an update from Boxing Day because as soon as we had rounded Cape Horn and moved into the South Atlantic in the lee of the South American continent, the skies cleared, temperatures began to climb a little and the wind dropped to something a little more manageable. Pressure was rising and hopes were high that we would be able to get into the Falklands as often the winds are too high for ships to anchor and for their tenders to ferry passengers ashore.

Any fears were soon dispelled when we awoke on Saturday morning as the sea was relatively calm and there was little wind...the only fly in the ointment was a steady and thick drizzly rain. Our spirits were raised further as we spotted a couple of penguin colonies on the shore as we sailed towards our anchorage at Port Stanley. Undeterred by the precipitation, we caught the tender into the port and, with another couple from Latvia, were soon climbing aboard a 4x4 and setting off with our driver for our day's expedition. (Incidentally I think that the Falklands is the place where all the Landrovers ever built come to die!).

Our destination was North Pond, a sandy inlet at the North Western point of the Eastern Island. The entire two hour journey was made on nothing but gravel tracks and by off-roading (in the truest sense of the word). Along the way we passed cordoned off minefields, radar posts and even the rusting wreckage of an Argentinian chinook which had been strafed during the 1982 war.

However the drive was worth every penny for at the inlet were hundreds, if not thousands of penguins. There were some Magellanic, the same as we had seen on Magdalena Island, but mostly they were Gentoo but also and luckily, just two or three pairs of King penguins, easily identifiable by their larger size and distinctive orange flashes. The fact that we were getting soaked by the rain did not matter. We watched these comical and fascinating birds for an hour or more as they played in the surf, built nests, preened, sheltered and tended to their chicks in the rookery, slid down to the sea on their bellies and enacted mini marches of the penguins in columns of five or six. Utterly delightful!

Unfortunately, all good things come to an end and all too soon we had to make the return drive back to Port Stanley. Our driver gave us a brief tour of the town and pointed out some of the geographical features that had become household names during the conflict before dropping us off so that we could have a quick look around by ourselves. Thankfully, just as we got back, the rain stopped.

As for the Islands themselves, apart from Port Stanley, there is nothing at all here. If you think that the Yorkshire Moors on a wet Tuesday afternoon in January are bleak, then you haven't been to the Falklands. Granted, there are a few isolated farms, but the vegetation is so poor that the farmers talk in terms of acres per sheep rather than sheep per acre. The land is a mixture of peat bog and exposed boulder fields and there are no trees, so it gave a completely new insight into just how difficult it would have been for the British forces to traverse. Why anyone would want to invade in the first place is quite beyond me. (Oh, did someone mention the word "oil"?)

Port Stanley (or simply Stanley as it now seems to be called) is interesting, rather larger than I had imagined and quintessentially British. There are no foreign accents to be heard, the currency is familiar, the letter boxes and telephone boxes are a comforting shade of red and the quayside pub was packed with locals enjoying a Sunday afternoon pint.

We did a little bit of souvenir shopping including buying the obligatory tee shirt and once again caught one of the last tenders back to the ship, rather damp but with heads and cameras full of wonderful memories.

11. Around the Horn

Our approach to Cape Horn began at around 7am and so we were up, showered and well wrapped against the elements so as to be up on deck in good time. For most on board, this was to be the high point of the trip and I think it is safe to say that nobody was disappointed.

There was not much of a swell running, but the wind was blowing at a steady 40 knots and the temperature was just 5C. The sky was generally overcast with a few bright patches and there were many intense squally showers of driving rain and hail. Thus, it is true to say that we experienced the rounding of the Cape in the spirit it in which it should be done!

Our route meant that we approached from the north, passing between the islands and then turning to port so that the Cape island itself was almost circumnavigated. The passing showers, pitch black skies interspersed with bright sunshine, powerful waves crashing against the rocks and even a rainbow all added to the sense of Mother Nature's power. As we continued around to the most southerly point, eventually the lighthouse came in to view, followed shortly thereafter by the Chilean naval outpost and also the albatross sculpture, a memorial to all those sailors who had lost their lives in this most inhospitable of places.

Those passengers who were hardy enough to remain on deck huddled wherever they could find some shelter, although most preferred to view from the comfort of one of the ship's lounges. Again, I was reminded of the fact that the sailors of Magellan's day would not have been afforded such luxury.

Several, should I say, foolhardy souls were determined to watch our rounding whilst sitting in the jacuzzis, and with hindsight they were probably a lot warmer than we were!

It took an hour and a half to complete the rounding and then we went beck below decks for a very welcome cooked breakfast and a mug of steaming coffee. As I write, the sky has cleared somewhat and as we steam towards the Falkland Islands, once again we have the albatrosses and petrels for company.

Thus it can be said that we have joined that elite band of sailors who have sailed around Cape Horn. Maritime folklore has it that we can now eat with one leg up on the table (although I fear we would be ejected from the restaurant should we try), and we now are also entitled to wear a gold earring in our left ear. Book me my appointment at Ernest Jones now!

10. Christmas at the end of the world.

A Christmas Day to remember.

The morning began before 6am when the Golden Princess entered the Beagle Channel on her way into Ushuaia. On the port side of the ship were the Andes mountains with the early sunlight bathing on the jagged, snow covered peaks and glinting off the blue crystal glaciers, in fact very reminiscent of the Norwegian or Alaskan fjords. Truly mother nature at her most magnificent and a Christmas morning view like no other.

We continued down the Channel until we reached Ushuaia, today's port of call. At the beginning of the last century the city used to be an Argentine penal colony, but the prison closed in the 1940's and now  the city prides itself on being at the end of the world and also the starting point for Antarctic expeditions. Indeed, it is the most southerly permanently inhabited settlement of any consequence in the Southern Hemisphere.

We had booked an excursion which took us on a narrow gauge steam railway through the Tierra del Fuego National Park to view local flora and fauna and views, and then on to Enscanada Bay. The former was originally built by the convicts and is now a major tourist attraction, whilst the latter boasts the most southerly post office in the world and affords a panoramic vista over the Channel.

Once returned to the main town, we set about a brief exploration of the centre and the main street. Although it was Christmas Day, the souvenir shops were not going to be put off from earning a few dollars, while for a large number of local residents, a special meal out in one of the numerous restaurants appeared to be the order of the day. For those locals not eating in the restaurants, many had taken their camping and cooking equipment out to one of the numerous camp sites and were enjoying a barbecue lunch.

Ushuaia has come along way from its penal colony roots and is a very likeable town. It has a spectacular backdrop of the mountains and overlooks one of the most ecologicaly famous Channels and National Parks in the world. Surprisingly, it's climate is not one of extremes although as we can attest, all four seasons can be experienced in the matter of just a few hours.

Aboard the ship, the carol singing on Christmas Eve did not contain any traditional carols, but was only a collection of well known Christmas songs. Nearly all the passengers were in formal dress, or at least dressed smartly and the crew have also been very festive in their uniforms and greetings. Father Christmas also arrived on board the ship this morning and had small gifts for all the younger children on board.

We have just had our own Christmas dinner, which included some traditional fayre on the menu in the form of roast turkey, although the trimmings were sadly lacking. On the plus side, Christmas pudding and mince pies appeared as dessert options. We had dinner with a couple from Switzerland and a couple from California who were all agreeable company but I must add that the Swiss gentleman had the worst fitting toupee that I have ever seen.

As I write it is after 11pm and still evening twilight. We are continuing our journey along the Beagle Channel in flat calm seas and then from 8am tomorrow morning we will be taking in another of the journey's highlights as we round Cape Horn. We will keep our fingers crossed that the sea does indeed stay calm and I will report on the actual conditions in due course.

9. Penguins!

First of all I am happy to be able to report some good news. We teamed up with the Austrian couple for yesterday afternoons trivia and came in equal first. Even the tie break could not separate us, so we all won one of Princesses much coveted key ring mini torches. As you can imagine we were all rather underwhelmed.

Around 6pm in the evening we entered the Magellan Straits. Although it remained rather misty at times, the change in the weather and especially the sea conditions was almost instantaneous as we were protected from the prevailing winds by the land on our starboard side. The land itself was very bleak, the vegetation sparse and many of the peaks were snow covered. The Straits are also very narrow in places which just added to the sense of natural beauty.

So today we have been in Punta Arenas, the largest town of any consequence on the South American mainland and gateway to Patagonia. An early start meant room service breakfast and then we set off to catch the ferry to Magdalena Island and hopefully for one of the highlights of our holiday.

We were not disappointed! Upon arrival at the island we were met by a welcoming committee of Magellanic penguins, some 70,000 pairs of them. I defy anybody not to grin broadly watching these cute little birds waddling comically across the beach, across the pathway and up to their burrows. As it is still relatively early in the season, many of the burrows harboured one, or even two chicks, easily identifiable by their fluffy feathers and being fussed over by Mum and Dad. We kept them company for an hour or so and then reluctantly it was time to board the ferry for the return journey back to the port. On the way back we spotted a small number of spouts from whales although we did not see enough of them to be able to provide identification.

Safely back, we then set out to explore a little of Punta Arenas itself and joined the locals going about their last minute Christmas Eve shopping. The Main Street was certainly busy and the craft markets were doing a roaring trade from both locals and tourists alike. Obviously, the whole Christmas Eve atmosphere was very different to anything I have experienced before...but in a good way!

Tonight, being special, is a formal night and having been with penguins for the morning it is now my turn to put on my penguin suit and join them. There are carols being sung in the atrium before we go to dinner and then the Christmas Eve party gets under way in the Explorers Lounge later on.

So, for all those loyal readers who enjoy my little travel musings, I wish you all a very happy Christmas!

8. Observations two.

As we are now on a two sea day passage down to Punta Arenas, it's time for a few more comments and observations.

As usual, there are the usual characters aboard. The first is a tiny, solo, Hispanic lady who rather tagged on to us back in Santiago when we did the city tour. She is a pushy type, always first in the queue, always at the front of the coach, I'm sure you know the kind. Well, imagine our surprise when at check-in at Valparaiso, she was first in the queue once more but sitting in a wheelchair, ready to be pushed aboard! Then at sailaway we spied her again, first up on the dance floor and generally giving it large, hence she is now known as Mandy Pipkin. (Only fans of Little Britain will get that one).

Last night at the show we saw John Cleese, (in his Fawlty Towers era and even the gait is perfect) and then yesterday morning we had breakfast with Joanna Lumley. Which was nice.

In terms of marine life, we haven't seen too much thus far. There have been harbour seals in both of the ports that we have visited and also some very large (in excess of 6 feet long), very alien looking jellyfish. Bird life too, as been sparse although we have been accompanied by a number of very agile seabirds ever since we departed Valparaiso. We have been advised that the slightly smaller ones are giant petrels whilst the much larger whiter ones are indeed albatrosses. They certainly have an impressive wingspan.

Onboard, we have attended our first trivia session. We made up one third of an Anglo-American-Austrian team and scored 15. The winning team scored 16, so we did well although having changed our minds on one answer could have equaled the winners. Gutted.

Yesterday we had dinner with Sue and Denny from New York, but they are travelling companions only. Sue was lovely and told us of her experience working in and then escaping from, Wall Street on the day that the twin towers were attacked. Denny on the other hand was as camp as a row of tents and was flamboyant, outrageous and totally hilarious!

As we travel ever southwards, the weather has been deteriorating although that can only be expected.

For the last two days, the skies have been leaden and gunmetal grey, the sea can only be described as "angry", the wind has been a constant force 7 and the temperature is just 9 degrees. We are in the surroundings and comfort of a luxury cruise ship and I cannot but think just how miserable it must have been for the sailors in Magellan's time as they sailed the same route.

7. Midsummer snow.

First of all, an apology for anyone who missed my Sunday posting, but yesterday proved to be a very busy day indeed.

Our port of call was Puerto Montt, a reasonably sized town and very much a working fishing port. The town was originally founded by settlers from Germany and retains a distinctly alpine feel in both architecture and culture. However our excursion took us a little further inland and to a large national park containing rivers, lakes, and volcanoes, along the way passing a small number of fields which were full of grazing llamas.

The first stop was Petrohue Falls, where the glacial mountain meltwater cascaded through deep gullies and carved weird and wonderful shapes through the lava flows. It was not quite as spectacular as some waterfalls we have seen, but certainly with the high, snow covered mountains and conifer forests in the background, worthy of a chocolate box cover.

We then journeyed onwards to the Mount Orsono volcano, currently classified as dormant, which is just as well seeing as it is a centre for all kinds of winter sports. We climbed up to around 4,000 feet, just at the point where the snow line lay. Unfortunately there was a small but persistent layer of cloud which covered the summit and it was impossible to gain a view of the crater although we are assured that it is well known for being one of the most perfectly shaped volcano cones. 

The views of the valley and lakes below from such a height were impressive, to say the least. It was definitely rather cold, but that did not deter from the throwing of snowballs and while we were up there we experinced a couple of light snow showers. Snow on the first day of summer....now that has to be a first!

Once descended from the mountain we drove on for a very late lunch. This proved to be a very tasty and alcoholic affair, starting with pesto sours, then local specialities of cheese pies, spicy vegetable soup, a generous portion of freshly poached salmon, kurchen (a kind of cake/crumble mix) for dessert and all washed down with a very agreeable Chilean white.

There was just time for a quick look around a craft market of one of the towns on the lakeside before having to return to the port and making the last but one tender back to the ship.

So there was just time to get out on deck and watch the sailaway before getting ready for early evening drinks and dinner, although having had a late lunch I was not up to the usual four courses.

Then to round off the day we went to the theatre to watch the late night performance of "The British are Coming", an energetic song and dance routine. This was highly enjoyable as all the songs were English 60's and 70's pop classics and (l'm showing my age now), I knew all the words!

6. Initial observations.

Golden Princess is noticeably smaller than her sister ship the Emerald Princess which we were aboard earlier in the year. However, all the usual Princess public rooms are present and the overall layout is very familiar. We are still working our way around the various amenities but perhaps the highlight thus far is the Star Wars themed Skywalkers lounge, a futuristic looking bar/observation lounge by day and nightclub after sundown. It is situated high up at the very stern of the ship and affords 360 degree panoramic views.

This trip is the first one where we have opted for anytime dining as opposed to fixed seating traditional dining. For our first evening we were seated with a couple from Tennessee and a couple from California, all were pleasant enough. I am a little apprehensive that we will end up having the same evening conversations a dozen or so times, but we can always make reservations for a table for two or at the speciality restaurants during the voyage.

In terms of demographics, the passenger manifest is also very different to what we have experienced previously. All age groups are well represented from toddlers to teens and from honeymooners to shufflers and the average age must be 45-55. I would also estimate that perhaps a third of our fellow travellers are Spanish speaking, but whether they are South American or Mexican/Spanish/Hispanic, remains to be seen. What is clear though is that many of them are families taking their children on a break over the Christmas holidays.

Other everyday things are also different here in the Southern Hemisphere. The water really does go down the plug hole the "other way". The night sky is also unusual , for example, the familiar shape of Orion appears upside down!

Throughout the day, there has been a 3-5 metre swell running and so (in nautical terms), there has been some movement of the ship, but this is expected to lessen tomorrow. 

5. Setting sail.

The drive from Santiago to the port of Valparaiso was both interesting and scenic. Leaving the choking traffic of the city behind, the road lead through the lower mountain passes and valleys heading northwest towards the coast. Along the way we passed copper mines, numerous vineyards and wineries, and then thick conifer forest which was being actively logged. We also had the opportunity to tick off llamas from our "must see" list.

Check in and boarding took place in a matter of minutes so by noon we were on board the ship and exploring the amenities she had to offer (but more about that in future posts).

The main atrium is splendidly decorated for the season and there are Christmas trees and othe less ostentatious decorations scattered here and there around the ship. All the staterooms have a small festive ornament or two in the entranceway and all the staff having to wear red Santa hats. This does look rather out of place considering the sunny skies and warm temperatures!

The mandatory lifeboat drill is to be attended shortly and then we will be on our way southwards!

4. Warm in Chile.

Our final hours in London were largely uneventful apart from a rather nice birthday lunch at a French restaurant just off Oxford Circus. Steak and fries with a home made creme caramel just hit the spot.

We arrived at Heathrow in good time and there were no problems checking in, indeed our bags were checked right through via our connection in Madrid. Obviously we had fingers crossed that they arrive on the same flight as us in Santiago! The first leg of the journey down to the Spanish capital was on time...just as well as the connection time was only 90 minutes. However, we did not need to worry unduly as the Iberia ground crew did a splenid job of ensuring that passengers with connections were bussed quickly and efficiently to the required terminal.

As the second leg of the journey departed Madrid just after midnight, it was a relatively easy task to catch a few hours of sleep. Unfortunately the flight over the Amazon Basin took place partly in the dark and for the remainder was covered in thick cloud so there was no view. We were met on arrival, our transportation to the hotel and onwards to the ship has all been coordinated, and once again, Princess's organization throughout has been faultless.

Thus it seems amazing that in the space of 16 hours or so we have crossed the equator and travelled from the 7C chill of a London midwinter to the 30C heat of a Santigo midsummer.

Once checked in at our hotel and having freshened up and had a spot of lunch, we set out to have a quick look at the nearest shopping centre. You can, dear reader, take heart from the fact that the average Chilean shopping mall contains, all the usual global brand names, the usual assortment of stroppy teenagers "hanging out", the usual harassed mothers spending money like there is no tomorrow on Christmas presents they cannot really afford and the usual grumpy looking Father Christmas sitting in a grotto under a snow machine trying to coax smiles out of frightened toddlers so that Granny can have the perfect photo of her little a darling.

So as to maximise the most of our limited time in the city, we opted to take the ubiquitous city tour later in the afternoon. Although Santiago doesn't have too much going for it in terms of history and architecture, it does have the spectacular backdrop of the Andes mountains. It does also have its poorer and more affluent areas, but based on the evidence we saw, it is also a safe, friendly and extremely clean city. 

Tomorrow morning we take the coach for the two hour drive to Valparaiso where we shall be boarding the Golden Princess.

PS. Sorry about the font change...I have no control over it!

3. Carols with Kate

No, I don't mean a sighting of the female half of the Middleton family, besides, for the pedants amongst you, there is no apostrophe "s". But more on this later.

Another crisp and chilly London morning dawned and following a light breakfast we headed down to the Tower of London, and in particular to Tower Bridge so that we could experience the city's newest attraction. Amazingly, there was no queue, so with tickets in hand we ascended the lift to the top of the north tower and ambled across the newly opened glass floored walkway some 40 metres above the River Thames. It was surprising the number of other tourists who could not bring themselves to step onto it despite it only being 10 metres in length, but we had no such qualms. The views upstream, downstream and directly below were fabulous. Once back down to street level on the other side of the river, our tickets permitted us access to the engine room from where the raising and lowering of the road-bridge is powered. This too was hugely interesting, all the more so considering it was designed and built in Victorian times.

As there was still not a cloud in the sky, we thought we would try our luck by journeying back along the South Bank to Westminster and chancing the queue for the London Eye. Lady Luck was indeed with us, once again there was no line to speak of and thus we were soon in our pod (with just two other people), making our revolution of the wheel. The views from the top were even more spectacular than from the Bridge.

It was now after 1pm, tummies were beginning to rumble and so a lovely lunch was partaken in a cramped but very amenable French bistro in South Kensington. I had confit of duck followed by the first creme brûlée of the holiday for dessert, and all washed down with a refreshingly cold beer.

Following this, the calories needed to be burned off so we decided to walk back to our hotel rather than go by tube. As there was no great rush, our route took us through the Natural History Museum for the briefest of looks, past the Albert Hall and up into Hyde Park. By now, dusk was falling rapidly, and the numerous squirrels in the park were all heading back to their dreys. However, at the other end of the scale, the Winter Wonderland Fayre consisting of dozens of stalls and amusements was just beginning to come to life. It was fine for a look, but cheap, tacky and ripoff are just three of the words that came to mind as we ambled through.

But back to the carols. Before leaving Jersey we had managed to obtain two tickets for Kate Rusby who was performing a Christmas concert at the Barbican. The Barnsley songstress treated her wrapt and appreciative audience to a mixture of Christmas songs, traditional carols and uniquely Yorkshire folk versions of traditional carols. All in all, a magical two hours.

Kate Rusby - Sweet Bells - YouTube

www.youtube.com/watch?v=mWz2X_h72nU

As we begin a long journey to the other side of the world tomorrow, this may be my last posting for a few days.

2. Departure day

We left Jersey in thick drizzle early this morning and arrived into Gatwick forty minutes later in bright sunshine.

The trip up to the city was uneventful and after checking in at the Sausage hotel ( The Cumberland, geddit?!), and dropping off bags, off we trooped to join the happy throng of Christmas shoppers in central London. The streets were indeed busy, but I think that have seen busier. Our route took us down Oxford street from Marble Arch, all the way down to Covent Garden, then through in to Trafalgar Square (especially to see the Christmas tree) and Piccadilly Circus and finally back to our starting point.

Thus, as I write this note we are resting tired legs before setting off again to find a local hostelry for dinner. 

One pleasant surprise occurred when we checked in to the hotel. Claire casually mentioned that it was my birthday during our stay and when we got back to our room, the staff had delivered a hand signed birthday card and a complimentary bottle of Merlot. If the spelling and grammar in this posting has gone downhill since I first started writing it is because I can vouch for the very agreeable robustness of the wine.

1. In the footsteps of Magellan.

Having already voyaged almost as far north as it is possible to sail, your correspondent is now planning to travel almost as far south as is possible by taking a journey around Cape Horn. 

The very words "around the Horn" were, in times gone by, enough to strike fear into the heart of many a sailor, but we are hopeful that as the trip will take place in the middle of the Southern Hemisphere's summer, the seas should be relatively calm and any storms will pass far to the south. Only time will tell!

Ever the amateur naturalists, we hope to view some wildlife along the way, including whales, dolphin,sea-lions, condor, llama  and albatross....and not forgetting a huge favourite of the Southern Ocean, penguins!

Thus we will place our lives in the very capable hands of the captain and crew of the Golden Princess as our adventure proper starts from Santiago in Chile and will end with a day on Copacabana Beach in Rio, Brazil some two weeks later. Not only do we have the excitement of exploring many new places, we will also be experiencing Christmas Eve, Christmas Day and New Years Eve in different countries and of course, all the celebrations that go along with those special days on board the ship.

Princess have (presumably for operational reasons) added an extra day and port of call to the voyage at no extra cost to us, so that can only be said to be a bonus. We have some exciting excursions already booked, details of which will become apparent as the trip progresses. 

A link to the Golden Princess bridgecam can be found below:

here

The packing list is proving to be somewhat of a challenge as we need to take clothes for summer temperatures of 30c and winter chills, winds and temperatures of under 10c. However, the trip begins very shortly with a couple of days in a wintery London before flying out to South America.

Much to look forward to and I hope all readers will enjoy the blog as it unfolds (internet connections permitting!